WALKING OUT

There are many reasons for walking out of a salesman’s office, or out of a manager’s office. Maybe you’ll even start to walk off the lot. But one thing must be embedded deep inside your head to save you from “being put together.” Once you walk out, keep walking no matter how hard we try to entice you to turn back! We’ll call out “Wait! I’ve got an idea!” or something similar to that. We’ll watch you to walk and wait for the right moment to get you to turn around. It’s all part of the master plan.

Salesmen and sales managers expect some customers to walk. So we have a game plan for this. We know we push you too hard at times and you’ll get up and leave. And we know you’re just waiting to hear us call you back and then Bingo!, you’ll get the figures you want. So we do holler out to you. You turn around and listen to the offer. Ahhh yeah, now you’re in control of the negotiations.

But I have a news flash … all this drama is a calculated move on our part. We know that once you turn around, we have you back in our clutches. And we’ll make you believe you’re getting the best of us. But all the while, we’re sticking it to you and you won’t even know it’s happening. You see, you show your vulnerability when you turn back. At that point we know for sure you don’t want to leave without your new car. And we’ll be counting on our huge commission check at the end of the month!

So PLEASE keep this in mind, once you walk off … DO NOT turn around for any reason! Keep walking to your car and drive off! There are so many other ways to get to you besides the monthly payments, your trade-in value, or whatever the stumbling block was. What are they? I’ll explain in the upcoming weeks.

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2 Responses to WALKING OUT

  1. Lynn says:

    The actual whlaoslee value placed on the car by the dealer (they will almost NEVER tell you this number) will be within pocket change regardless of what dealership you go to. What really matters is your negotiating skills vs the sales staff’s skills. (They will win most of the time unless you are an experienced negotiator in your own right.) The next factor will be how much “wiggle room” exists in the vehicle that you are buying. If you are looking at a new compact at a Chrysler dealer and a new mid-sized Ford there will be more bargaining room at the Ford house so it may appear that they are offering you more on your trade. They really are not, they’re just shifting the numbers around to make it appear that way.The best way to buy a new car is to sell your old one privately for cash. You’ll ALWAYS get more money on a private sale than a dealer will allow whlaoslee on a trade. If you insist on trading in, say for convenience sake, bargain on the new vehicle as if you were a cash buyer who is NOT trading in a car. Once you have a firm deal signed by management, bring up your trade. Don’t let them mess with the selling price on the new car after that point. What they are offering you on your trade is something close to the true whlaoslee value. That number should be very close no matter what dealership you are at.Watch out for one trick that I’ve seen a lot of lately. Dealers will show you the Black Book whlaoslee price and claim that that’s all that it’s worth. What they are showing you however is the pricing for vehicle AUCTIONS. Auction pricing is always less than whlaoslee because the buyers are not permitted to do much more than look over the cars and listen to the engine running. They can’t drive them or put them on a lift for a close evaluation. Insist that they use the NADA whlaoslee dealer guide pricing which will always be higher. That’s fair because they have had a chance to carefully inspect your car, unlike when they buy at auction.

    • Ray Lopez says:

      Auction prices are not always lower than wholesale prices. In fact, many cars that are in high demand will sell for above wholesale. And keep in mind that wholesale prices are determined quarterly by such publications as Kelly Blue Book and NADA. By the time they publish their findings, it’s old news. Auction prices change day by day. And they reflect the true value of a car.

      If a glut of a certain type of car, for instance Ford Focus, hits the market because they’re coming off leases and car rental agencies are turning them in, this drives down the value of that car. Dealer auctions reflect that immediately, whereas publications will take up to three months before they post the lower price.

      If a certain type of car is suddenly in high demand due to popularity or low availability, the value increases. Again, this is immediately reflected in dealer auction prices. And publications will be late to the game again.

      That being said, a dealer will not pay you more for your car than what he can buy it for at auction, unless he’s manipulating your monthly payment or the price of the new car. This is why you must negotiate only one item at a time. Do not discuss payments until you’ve agreed on a selling price of the new car, then the price of your trade in.

      And do yourself a favor, trade in your car and get it over with. Do you really want strangers coming to your house and driving your car? What about all the “no-shows” who tell you they’ll be right over and never show up? You wait and wait and wait … for nothing. Then how do you conduct the actual sale of the car so you don’t get ripped off? And don’t forget to go to the DMV with the buyer to sign all the necessary forms to release you of liability of your old car. Is it worth it? And what happens if something goes wrong with the car you just sold? The new owner wants to return the car for a full refund or he’ll sue you! Just trade it in and get it over with. Just be very careful and demand to see the Blackbook, or Mannheim, report on your car.

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